About the track
The circuit is best walked as described below because crossing the Travers Saddle is easier from the Travers side. Walking times are a guide only and will vary with fitness and weather conditions. Weather and snow conditions are most favourable between October and May although in some years winter snow persists into late November on the alpine passes.
Print-formatted version of this profile (PDF, 229K)
Places to stay
There are 11 huts along the track, including the side trips and Speargrass Hut. Hopeless, Cupola and Coldwater Huts are standard huts requiring one Backcountry Hut Ticket, the rest are serviced huts requiring three Backcountry Hut Tickets.
There are two (one only open for two months) serviced DOC camping grounds at Lake Rotoiti, and a self-registration camping area at Rotoroa. Hostel, hotel and lodge accommodation is available at St Arnaud and Rotoroa.
No cooking facilities are provided in the huts. All visitors should carry portable cookers.
St Arnaud to Lakehead Hut (28 bunks)/Coldwater Hut (12 bunks), 3 hr
Lower Travers Valley swingbridge
From Kerr Bay: Beginning at the eastern end of bay, the Lakehead Track wanders through forest, crossing several shallow streams and shingle screes. Small beaches along the way offer picnicking opportunities and mountain views. At the head of Lake Rotoiti, the grassy flats of the lower Travers Valley greet you. Lakehead Hut is 15 minutes from the jetty.
From West Bay: Walk up Mt Robert Road to where the Lakeside Track descends to the lake edge through dense manuka and kanuka trees. Follow the lake shore to Coldwater Hut which is perched right by the water’s edge. The short diversion to Whisky Falls is worthwhile. Many trampers take a water taxi to the head of Lakes Rotoiti or Rotoroa to start their tramp.
Kerr Bay Campsite
West Bay Campsite
Lakehead/Coldwater Huts to John Tait Hut (27 bunks), 5 hr
From Lakehead or Coldwater Hut, walk up the river flats through forest and clearings left from the valley’s farming days. The track from Coldwater Hut passes the turn off to Lake Angelus. After two hours of easy walking, a swingbridge is reached, beyond which the track continues on the west bank.
Soon the valley narrows and walking becomes more varied, alternating between forested terraces and grassy river flats. Mt Travers can be glimpsed as the track nears Hopeless Creek.
Cross the creek on a swing bridge and soon the river is left behind and the gradient becomes steeper. As it eases you hear the river’s sounds again, cross a few small creeks and suddenly emerge to the welcome sight of John Tait Hut at the head of a small clearing.
John Tait Hut
John Tait Hut to Upper Travers Hut (24 bunks), 3 hr
Continue beyond John Tait Hut to Cupola Creek chasm, from where the track climbs steeply, leaving the river in its gorge below. A sign marks a short side-track to Travers Falls, a 20-metre cascade plunging into a deep bowl.
Soon the gradient eases. Cross several screes and eventually the Travers River on a short bridge. From here the forest is noticeably stunted and the track, although steep again, offers occasional views of the now looming mountains.
Finally the track levels and emerges from the trees onto an extensive, tussock-covered flat. Upper Travers Hut nestles there, with the towering east face of Mt Travers above.
Upper Travers Hut
Upper Travers Hut to West Sabine Hut (30 bunks), 6–9 hr, depending on conditions
Steep gully leading down from Travers
Travers Saddle is an alpine pass requiring ice axe and crampons in winter and well into spring. Be prepared for sudden weather changes. The Sabine side of the saddle in particular is exposed to avalanches. At Upper Travers Hut the track becomes a route marked by snow poles as far as the bushline on the Sabine side.
Cross the Travers River near the hut and follow the poles through dense alpine shrubs. Leaving the boulder-strewn valley the tracks steepens and zigzags up a scree slope before continuing more gently to the saddle with its panoramic views. The saddle is 450 metres above the hut, about 1 hour 30 minutes walking.
From the saddle the descent is steep — Sabine Forks is 1000 metres below. The track crosses tussock and scree, and then briefly enters stunted beech forest before emerging into a steep gully. Descend by zigzagging to the valley floor where the track begins again and the walking becomes easier.
Ten minutes further on, a bridge crosses the deep chasm of the East Sabine River. The track follows the brink of this chasm before descending into the West Sabine Valley and heading upstream a short distance to West Sabine Hut.
West Sabine Hut
West Sabine Hut to Sabine Hut (32 bunks), 5 hr
Cross the swingbridge near the hut over the West Sabine River. The track down-valley sidles above the river and crosses three long, open flats.
Leave the river where it enters a gorge in the lower valley. Climb steeply, then descend again, rejoining the deep river at a bridge across a narrow cleft. Easy walking leads to Sabine Hut with its wide views of Lake Rotoroa. From Sabine Hut there are three ways to finish the tramp. The easier tramping option is via Speargrass Hut and the Speargrass Valley. The more difficult is the Lake Rotoroa Route. The last option is to take the Rotoroa Water Taxi.
Lake Rotoroa Campsite
Completing the circuit — Sabine Hut to Rotoroa or St Arnaud
To St Arnaud via Speargrass Hut (12 bunks), 8 hr
Follow the track along the lake shore to a sign. Climb up to Howard Saddle and then begin a long sidle in and out of several small valleys and through delicate wetlands. Here you’ll notice the distinctively conical kaikawaka or New Zealand cedar tree, with its dark foliage, stringy bark and often twisted trunk.
After about five hours, the track reaches Speargrass Saddle, from where it descends to a clearing and Speargrass Hut. Cross the bridge over Speargrass Stream and enter the forest. A well graded track descends to the valley floor and follows the river before climbing gradually for some distanceto the carpark overlooking Lake Rotoiti. From here it is 1 hour 30 minutes down Mt Robert Road to St Arnaud village.
Follow the lake edge route through beech forest to Rotoroa village (6 hr). Or arrange to be collected by the water taxi.
Travers valley side creeks
Hukere Stream: From the junction with the Travers Track it is a steady, four-hour ascent to Angelus Hut (26 bunks) and the lake-filled basins of the Travers Range. See Angelus Hut tracks and routes.
Hopeless Creek: Follow the river for 1 hour 30 minutes to Hopeless Hut (6 bunks).
Cupola Basin: 2 hours 30 minutes of strenuous climbing leads to the lofty perch of Cupola Hut (8 bunks), with superb views of Mt Hopeless.
Blue Lake, 7 hr return
This is a worthwhile overnight trip from the main circuit. Head upstream from West Sabine swingbridge. After 1 hour 30 minutes, the valley broadens and the track passes through forest destroyed by an avalanche in 1980. Climb steeply, in two stages to a high basin containing Blue Lake Hut (16 bunks).
Blue Lake, known to Ngati Apa iwi as Rotomairewhenua (the land of peaceful waters) is thought to be the clearest fresh water in the world. While only seven metres deep the clarity of the lake water can exceed 80m which is close to the theortically calculated clarity of distilled water.
Blue Lake Hut
Respect these waters and do not wash yourself, your clothes or dishes in the lake.
Lake Angelus via Mt Cedric, 6 hr
This is a very exposed route to Angelus Basin. The track begins behind Sabine Hut and climbs very steeply and steadily to the bushline. Poles and cairns mark the route from here, which eventually drops off the eastern side of a high ridge and descends to Angelus Hut (26 bunks).
See Angelus Hut tracks and routes.